Sunday, 11 August 2013

My Love of Jazz Age Tailoring

One of the most obvious questions that anyone who has a real fascination for good tailoring must ask, is where does such an interest come from?

For me, it comes from my love of Jazz. From the music's very inception at the turn of the twentieth century, Jazz performers of all kinds have paid particular attention to their appearance and in the dandified culture of the 20s and 30s, the use of one's clothing as a form of self-expression reached its peak. My interest in the music of the time gave way to a broader interest in the Jazz Age, and the inimitable style that the 1920s and 30s brought with it.



This manifests itself in my personal taste in tailoring and dress. The Jazz Age was the first time when it became acceptable in popular culture for both men and women to express themselves with their clothing, and given the nature of menswear at the time, this was done (for men at least) through tailoring. Its important to consider that tailoring was not considered formal, but the norm and men really did know how to wear tailoring well, it was the done thing. As a result, the average man was far more experienced, confident and engaged with his tailoring than many men are today. I have always maintained, when you truly know how to wear a suit properly, that's when you can express yourself most freely with it and experiment with cut, colour, cloth and accessories. This experimentation was something that was done a good deal during the Jazz Age, as society became more free and expressive, and its reflected strongly in the flamboyant, well balanced, yet fully shaped and colourful tailoring of the time.

There's so much flexibility in Jazz Age tailoring design as a result - there are design options to be found everywhere. From vertical or cut-away pockets on trousers, high waists, the addition of braces, turn-ups of different sizes and pleat formations. Jacket shapes, vents, half belts and inverted pleats or shoulder pleats, patch or welted pockets, striking peaked and wide-falling notched lapels with full bellies, strong shoulders, expressed chests and flared waists, double-breasted waistcoats, heavy overcoats, elegant hats. Then there is the decadent use of colour and pattern; paisleys and geometric prints, bold stripes and checks, white collars and shirt cuffs. I could go on and on. 



For me, early twentieth century clothing provides the ideal blueprint to find the inspiration, individuality and flamboyance that I try to emulate in my own dress. Seldom have men been able to express themselves so powerfully and so elegantly with their clothes and channelling some Jazz Age style in my dress enables me to do the same.

Having made this point, some of you will agree with me that the tailoring of the 20s and 30s is some of the most exciting menswear that there has been to date, some of you will prefer something more contemporary or understated, and some of you will think that I'm down-right wrong. However, I'd welcome any of those responses, and often think that perhaps that's the joy of good tailoring - it is a profoundly personal pursuit and a uniquely creative means of self-expression. 


One of my more substantial boards on Pinterest holds a wealth of images which display either Jazz Age or Jazz Age-inspired tailoring features, please do take a look here: 
http://pinterest.com/studenttailor/a-jazz-age-aesthetic/

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