Summer Dinner Suiting: A Case Study

A few weeks ago I wrote a feature for Mensflair.com, analysing an archival image from the 30s, containing some unconventional, yet suave and technically correct summer dinner suits. I'm a big believer in practicing what I preach, and this particular column got me thinking - I had absolutely no dinner dress appropriate for the warmer months. The solution, as luck would have it, came about quite by chance a few weeks later. With my graduation approaching, Chester Barrie on Savile Row came to the rescue, and on requesting a summer-weight dark suit appropriate for 'Sub-Fusc' (Oxford's requisite academic dress) Designer Christopher Modoo suggested I try one of Chester Barrie's signature cocktail suits in a midnight blue mohair and linen blend. The colour is subtle and appropriate for Sub Fusc, and the fun, dressy cut and exquisite cloth made the purchase a no-brainer.

As you can imagine, the dressy nature of the suit appealed to me immensely (regular readers will be all too aware of my penchant for occasion and cocktail suiting) not only because the suit presents different aesthetic to anything I've owned previously, but is perfectly appropriate for dinner dress too. All the requisite features of a dinner suit are present; a broad shawl lapel, bound pockets and suitably dressy smoked mother of pearl buttons. But given the suit's identity as a 'cocktail suit', some less formal features which offer an intriguing experimentation with aesthetic are also present. Take for example the lack of silk lapel facings conventional to a dinner suit, which keeps the suit looks clean and markedly less formal. The cut of the trousers is likewise intriguing, modelled on a pair of 1960s inspired cross-welted pocket trousers, with slim legs and a relatively low rise - but one which is still suitably formal. Chester Barrie have avoided the most irritating mistake common to modern tailoring; cutting a trouser rise too low, even on these trousers featuring a relatively contemporary design.

Other interesting elements are to be found in the proportions of the coat itself. Chester Barrie's signature structured silhouette, with built-up shoulders, a heavily expressed chest, suppressed waist and flared skirt takes its inspiration from the classical British tailoring of the early twentieth century, when powerful silhouettes were the order of the day. However, this structured form has been pleasingly combined with certain aesthetic features which speak of slim, neat mod-suiting - giving the piece an intriguing update. A nipped waist on the jacket, a shawl collar with a gentle bow and a button stance that fastens slightly below the waist all adds a chic, retro edge. Slanted bound pockets also give the impression of slim hips, as do the slanting pockets on the trousers.

This aesthetic is in turn combined with a typically 30s double-breasted waistcoat with a bowed shawl lapel which echoes that of the coat. This, together with the highly architectural structure of the suit demonstrates precisely the same kind of innovative, yet appropriate experimentation as the two 30s dinner suits on display in the aforementioned illustration. Also experimental is the decision to cut the suit in a deep petrol blue in an innovative linen and  mohair blend with an open weave. The linen adds lightness and breathability, and the mohair resists creasing, lending the cloth a glorious dressy sheen and a crisp handle.

Such an unusual suit warrants dressing in a distinctive fashion. Both outfits here employ a white shirt and a tonal patterned tie, keeping things crisp, simple and (by my standards) minimal - offering an echo of clean and crisp mod-suiting. When worn as a cocktail suit, a white shirt with single cuffs and cut-away collar keeps things looking simple and some colour is injected through the pattern of the neck tie by Drakes. This kind of vibrant print channels the flamboyant patterns of the Jazz-Age, thematically connecting the 30s style of waistcoat, pocket-watch and tie. As a dinner suit, a crisp black tie and white pocket handkerchief would work beautifully, but I've dressed the suit here to reflect its 60s aesthetic, with a pleated dinner shirt that adds texture, and which is more retro than a classical marcella cotton shirt with dress studs. The oversized vintage raw silk bow tie has the same petrol notes as the suit cloth itself, with a subtle maroon polka dot to add interest. Finished with shoes on a slim last and a contrasting navy, white and red paisley pocket handkerchief, this outfit offers a quirky, yet authentic take on retro formal wear.

As you will doubtless expect of Chester Barrie, the floating canvass in the coat keeps the suit supremely comfortable to wear, even in the heat and the jacket has also been half-lined to add lightness and breathability. The cloth is proving crease resistant and durable, even though its a lightweight linen blend. In short, Chester Barrie's cocktail suits are set to become a signature fixture on the menswear scene over the coming months. I would urge you not to miss out on one of these suits, it'll be an investment that you'll treasure.

www.chesterbarrie.co.uk