I've always been keen on Chester Barrie's tailoring. I
learned a lot from my grandfather and he used to swear by their suits. The
launch of a new, frankly marvellous website, has prompted me to offer up some
thoughts on Chester Barrie's utterly exquisite Autumn/Winter 2013 Collection, which I
have gone out of my way to browse through enviously on a number of occasions
this season. Let's make no bones about it, its quite simply my favourite
off-the-peg tailoring collection out there right now.
Autumn/Winter 2013 is the brainchild of the company's Executive Buyer
and Designer Christopher Modoo, who has been largely responsible for
transforming the company's product over the past few years and the real delight
to be found in his current collection lies in its deft attention to detail,
understated creativity and emphasis on styling. The collection feels
quintessentially British in style, striking and simultaneously clean and
modern. So often, classic British brands offer products which are marred in old
fashioned or stuffy aesthetics, but Chester Barrie's designs ooze
contemporariness and glamour.
This is perhaps due in part to Chester Barrie's clever move
to invite Savile Row legend Edward Sexton, the man who can be credited with
making English tailoring sexy (Sexton was outfitter to just about every rock
star and sex icon of the 60s and 70s) to take on the role of Tailoring
Consultant. Along with Modoo, Sexton has helped to create Chester Barrie's
perfectly proportioned house style, with its signature sharp lines, strong
waist and shoulder. The noticeable fullness of the jacket's chest, a slim
sleeve and high armhole also lend the brand's tailoring a sartorial, yet modern
quality. The degree of thought that has been put into the proportions of the
block, is indicative of the attention to detail that goes into all of Chester
Barrie's clothing. The 'Burlington' suit shown below for example is a piece of
tailoring artistry; the coat is cut long, the full chest adds gravitas and the slant of the breast stand pocket precisely matches
the angle of the notch on the lapel. Even the width of the lapel mirrors the
width of a Chester Barrie tie. Also impressive is the company's commitment to replicate the quality of bespoke tailoring, using a ready-to-wear collection. All jackets feature canvassed internals, shoulder pads which are designed to provide a particularly solid line and structure and hand-padded lapels, otherwise unheard of in off-the-peg menswear.
The elegance of the firm's house cut extends to every single piece
in the collection, and the Spring/Summer 2014 preview available online looks equally promising. Take for example my favourite signature look, the plum
'Ebury' velvet jacket shown beneath, also available in a classic navy velvet
(the quality of which is exceptional - it has a lovely dense weave and deep
pile, especially woven for Chester Barrie). The broad, angular peaked lapels and one button closure are a match made in
heaven. Styled as it is - against an quirky blue stripe shirt, with its pointed collar
and collar bar, the blue and purple in the ensemble being bound together
with an equally quirky handkerchief - it is exquisite.
I have written before at length, what a pleasure it is
to find, every now and then, a British menswear label that in contrast to the
majority ticks all my boxes as a supremely fussy customer. Such a fuss deserves
to be made, because I simply cannot think of another British tailoring brand
that's managing to produce such handsomely constructed and styled off-the-peg
tailoring right now. Chester Barrie deserves much plaudits
for the way its conducting itself currently. The brand is making a real
statement, exhibiting a uniquely expressive and luxurious approach to
British tailoring.
All images are courtesy of Chester Barrie.
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