Sunday, 3 November 2013

Planning Ahead - the Start of a New Project?

You may have gleaned from this blog so far, that when it comes to formal wear, I'm not a terribly practical dresser. I will be the first to confess that I succumb to the temptations of out-and-out dandyism too easily, and as a result I've yet to own a suit that's really appropriate for business or more relaxed day-dress. In fact, only this morning, I was having a conversation about how my tastes in tailoring are seldom focused around practicality. So far I've had a winter-weight flannel three piece and a very delicate Super-160s cocktail suit made - neither of which is ideal for everyday use.

So, times have come for a change. I'm hoping to have squirreled together the funds to place another order at the tailors by Christmas, and naturally, this means that I need to get thinking my options through. I have considered both a grey flannel chalkstripe, and a charcoal cloth with a purple overcheck running through it, but both these are also winter-weight (13-14oz), falling into the same pit-fall as my blue flannel suit. Keen followers of my Facebook and Twitter accounts may have noted my musings on the possibility of having a lilac suit made next, and although you may think I'm mad, there is a valid reasoning behind the colour choice here: chiefly, I've found a more practical cloth than I tend to usually go in for...


Yes, its lilac, but really its a very understated shade - more a lavender with muted notes of grey, making it a quite accessible rendering of an unusual colour-tone. I think, in a two piece it'll move from an easy-to-wear day suit to a business suit quite easily, and I can add a waistcoat when the occasion allows. The most important thing about this cloth for me though, is its fabrication. Its an English-woven, fully-milled cloth, woven in Yorkshire and weighing in at 10-11 ounces. Soft Yorkshire water used in the milling process and a fine, Super-130s yarn count have lent the fabric a soft handle (as does the five percent cashmere mixed into the wool yarn) and you can just tell by the softness and smooth finish of the cloth that its going to drape and wear well. Furthermore, its a herringbone weave, which adds toughness and lends itself to the durability expected of classic business suiting.

So, I've accidentally chosen a fabric therefore which will hold-up to the heavy use required of a business or day-suit. Its relatively understated in colour (by my standards) and has the perfect weight and thickness to be both resilient to wear and yet be appropriate for use right through from September into early summer in the UK. I'm also thinking of opting for a less dressy two-button closure and more understated notched lapels, instead of fence-plank sized peaked lapels that are my preference. I have always loved the 30s cut of Robert Redford's pink suit in the 1970s film of The Great Gatsby and I think a slightly more understated version of this will keep to my Jazz-Age inspired tastes, whilst being easier to wear than my other suits.


Here's hoping that the plan works out eh? Doubtless there'll be more to follow on my latest project come Christmas. If in the meantime anyone wants to suggest an appropriate colour for the lining, do let me know... I'm a little stumped at this point in time?


5 comments:

  1. Not too sure about this but I think that this sort of thing is good for people in television or radio. But do carry on.

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  2. Obviously your definition of what constitutes acceptable office attire is going to be heavily influenced by where you happen to work.

    Outlandish colours and patterns may be welcomed in a creative sector where one is expected to display a degree of individuality and flair but are likely to be frowned on in more formal business settings.

    If you are genuinely intending to use the suit for business, or for attending interviews, then I would strong suggest that you play it safe and go for navy or charcoal grey. This may seem painfully dull for someone of a more dandyish disposition, but if the suit is tailored well and dressed up with a tie clip or discreet pocket square then I guarantee that you'll still stand head and shoulders above the competition.

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  3. Dear Percy and Shortshanks,

    Thank you for your comments. I'm pleased that both of you have noted that this cloth would be best suited to work wear in a more creative environment, because when I refer to this as a business suit I am referring to my own business, which involves retailing designer suiting. My clients know me for the way I dress and I need to look the part. I require suits that make real statements to show to my clients that there really are no limits. If you refer back to the very first post I wrote in August, you can read a little bit more about the business there.

    I am well aware of what constitutes conventionally acceptable business attire, and if you'd like to read more, you can read my two-part series on how to brighten-up office attire in a tasteful fashion here: http://thestudenttailor.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/office-attire-part-one-colour-and.html and here: http://thestudenttailor.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/office-attire-part-two-style-and-cut.html

    Kind regards,

    Aleks

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  4. Mostly fabric are not good and may this fabric is good for me.
    I'll try it....!!
    Pakistani Fashion Clothing

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  5. Do the lilac color in the Great Gatsby style. I actually like Robert Redford's pink three piece and hope to have a bespoke version someday, but I think the lilac/lavender would be more practical. As the rest of your clothing would be very classic, with your physique and looks, you could "pull it off."

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