Back to Business: The Grey Trouser Project with Cad & the Dandy

So, Finals are over and this leaves me with a few free months where I can commit myself wholly and utterly to the world of luxury menswear - and what a joy it is too. To kick-off my return to the menswear blogosphere, I could think of no better way to mark the occasion than to pay a visit to Savile Row and pop into Cad & the Dandy for a new commission - or rather pair of commissions.

For quite a while now, I've had a hankering for a couple of pairs of staple, sartorial classic grey woollen trousers. Its the kind of thing that gets worn all the time and its a solid investment to keep in one's wardrobe (as will be emphasised in my latest Mensflair column to be published later this week). I'm hoping that these trousers will prove their versatility and be hard-wearing enough to mix with navy and charcoal blazers for business dress, whilst also becoming a staple of my casual wear worn with a crisp shirt and a casual jacket or cardigan.

With durability being a key concern for these trousers, the cloth choice required a good deal of thought. I have long been a fan of Dugdale Bros. full-bodied 13/14oz mid-weight business suitings and returned to an old favourite of mine - the 'English and Town Classics' Bunch - a selection of wonderfully solid, chunky worsteds. The cloths in this bunch are double-milled, giving them real body and a slight flannel finish. Choosing a plain light-grey twill therefore seemed like the durable alternative to a softer flannel, with a lovely soft, warm grey base with very pale grey and white flecks giving the cloth a lovely texture. Having had two suits in cloths from this bunch (my navy three-piece and double-breasted dogstooth suits) I can rest assured that this trouser will be supremely hard wearing and the creases will literally fall-out effortlessly after every use, requiring the bare minimum of maintenance.

The second trouser is to be made in a darkish hue which might be loosely considered a light-charcoal colour and is a little more of an experiment. The cloth in question is a very high-quality cavalry twill from Holland & Sherry's fantastic 'Dakota Plains' bunch which offers a selection of 11oz whipcords, 13oz cavalry twills (such as the one chosen) and some super-chunky Bedford cords. Cavalry twill is considered a quintessential trousering cloth in British tailoring circles because its weave is exceptionally strong; it produces fabrics which are quite weighty and which lend themselves to our dreary autumnal and winter climates. A cavalry twill differs from a normal twill because whereas a twill is conventionally formed from an equal distribution warp and weft yarns, cavalry twill has more threads to the inch in the warp than it does the weft, producing a very steeply angled twill shape, with alternating thin and thick lines of interwoven warp and weft - giving it a unique appearance and texture, as well as accounting for its exceptional durability.

Shape wise, we're sticking to my usual pattern, inspired by the high-waisted and full cut trousers of the 20s and 30s. As can be seen in the above photograph, they're designed to sit around my middle, with vertically cut side pockets, chunky 2" turn-ups and waist adjusters for a clean appearance. I know it may seem like I'm banging the same old drum with these trousers, but I simply feel the most comfortable and elegant in Jazz-Age shapes and I honestly believe that a high-rise trouser is considerably more flattering on most figures than low or mid-rise trousers. The only difference in cut between the two is in my choice of pleats. The plain light grey twill trousers are being made with twin inverted pleats, because the simple nature of the cloth acts as an understated foundation for a slightly busier cut - hence more pleats. The busier weave and form of the cavalry twill however lends itself to a simpler shape, so I've gone for single inverted pleats to keep things looking nice and elegant. I have also asked for a single rear pocket on the right hand side of each trouser. I find that I never use left hand side pockets, so its nicer to keep the left side of the trouser nice and clean. The pockets will fasten with zips because I prefer the security of a zip to a button on trouser pockets.

There will be more to follow at the basted fittings where Cad & the Dandy will work to ensure that the trousers hang and drape perfectly - an interesting task for any tailor, which can require a lot more precision and skill than one might imagine. 

Bespoke trousers start at £240.00 per pair, a distinctly affordable price for fully bespoke trousers.

www.cadandthedandy.co.uk