Sunday, 15 September 2013

The Importance of Alterations

Let's face facts, as much as many a well dressed man would surely die of happiness if he could afford a wardrobe made exclusively of bespoke tailoring, few of us have the income to afford such luxuries. On an average budget, shopping cleverly off-the-peg on the high street is the only real alternative.

But, as wonderful as much off-the-peg tailoring is, I'm sure that many of you will agree there's always a niggle in the back of your mind that 'the trousers are a little too loose', 'the sleeve is too long', 'my jacket's hanging-off me instead of fitting round my waist'. In essence, what you're saying to yourself is, 'this isn't a bespoke fit'.

Fortunately however, there is an affordable compromise that can be struck. Finding a skilled alterations tailor to fit off-the-peg garments to you can give a significantly more flattering fit, even with the most basic of things like trouser waist or leg size, as we shall see here.


These are my latest purchase, some lovely Italian woven dusty pink linen trousers from Marks & Spencer (you may have seen my tweet about a pink-trouser hunt some weeks ago)  I bought them half-price in the sale (naturally) but before putting them away for next summer, some things had to be addressed. These are from the 'Savile Row Inspired' collection, which Richard James design each season. The collection uses his slim cut trouser block. I have rather large thighs, and given that I couldn't fit into a 32" pair of trousers (my closest size off-the-peg) I bought a pair with a 34" waist which came with a larger leg, but the waist had to come in significantly to stop them from falling down round my ankles. The photo beneath illustrates the problem.


Fortunately, my alterations tailor can address this for a small fee of £22.00 and take the waist in three inches to my bespoke size of 31".


Similarly, the legs at 34" long were falling down round my heels and needed taking up, again a job for an alterations tailor. However, here too there is method in madness. Given my interest in Jazz-Age tailoring, I favour turn-ups on tailored trousers, so decided to have them added - hence the reason for buying a 34" trouser and then taking down the hem - this gives enough excess cloth to sew and press a 2" turn-up into place, giving the trousers a customised finish that only an alterations tailor can provide.



I'm sure you'll agree, the end result is considerably more favourable! I'd suggest that any man who values his tailoring finds himself a well reviewed, reputable alterations tailor, and gets his off-the-peg tailoring fitted. As we have seen, trousers can be easily dealt with, but what's more so can waistcoats, jackets and overcoats - excess material can be removed or alternatively let-out if a garment is too small, providing a closer, more flattering and often more elegant fit. An alterations tailor really is a pre-requisite for any well-dressed chap!

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