Inside the Drake's Factory

The Drake's factory is a place which seems in perfect symbiosis with the product it creates. Upon arrival, the overriding impression is that of a modern, clean, exact hive of industry. Intriguingly, a Drake's tie also feels like a clean and modern piece of precision design. Much like a Drake's tie however, the factory - industrious and precise though it is, is far from a soulless space, for the quiet and efficient creation of Drake's beautiful ties takes place within a handsome, airy Art Deco building on what is perhaps the most aptly named road in London: Haberdasher Street.

Essentially, the factory feels like a space defined by its history in the haberdashery trade, but which now combines a modern approach to craft with a retro eye for design and aesthetics. This combination perfectly characterises the Drake's product too, with the company's exceptional archive acting as a chief source of inspiration for much of each season's collection. This compelling combination of old and new also purveys the factory floor. Rolls of ancient madders sit alongside cutting edge Tussah's and quintessentially modern, trendy wool-silk blends mix with classic 50z printed silk foulards.

Drakes' very own Jamie Ferguson (pictured) took me through the production process; a journey which at every step focuses on quality control. This eye for precision which informs the quality of a Drake's tie begins at the furthest extreme of the factory, where bolts of cloth fresh from the printer's or mill are unravelled and checked their entire length through for imperfections. These lengths are then passed to the cutting benches. Cutters Stephen and Mario have been both cutting for Drake's for years, and much like tailors or shoemakers they exhibit a flawless instinct for their job, working with every kind of cloth and shape of tie and adjusting their technique accordingly - making it look effortless to perfectly cut and shape layers of very fine and slippery silk stretching on the bias into a workable form. They combine the typical modesty of a talented artisan with a quiet pride in their work.

The bundles of cut ties are then passed onto the tipper, where their tips are sewn in, allowing the length of the tie to be shaped into the finished product. One of several weights of lining are inserted into the finished tip depending on the tie's design, before the bottom tip alone receives a light pressing to anchor its shape. At this point, its time to bring the tie together, and the differing sides of the tie blade are brought together using a lose, yet firm and supremely delicate slip-stitch. The keeper loop is inserted by hand, labels hand-attached, tippings finished and only then is a pressing iron passed closely, quickly and gently over the length of the tie to secure its shape - a delicate skill in itself.

The strategic decision not to press the length of the tie until its been slip-stitched into shape is hugely important, so too is the lightness of the pressing each tie receives. As Jamie explained, 'we think of our ties like bespoke suits; they are not flat - they have a shape with fullness, a three dimensional form. There is a gentle roll in our ties that can only be achieved by hand-sewing them. We think of our ties "in the round" - not as flat pieces of silk'. Also important is the looseness of the securing slip-stitch, a stitch which allows the tie both to stretch and shrink in line with the rigours of daily wear, and hold its shape 'in the round' as Jamie puts it. As I wrote in a previous piece on Drake's, the result is a tie which feels uniquely delicate, yet durable. After the final pressing, the ties are checked once more for quality and to ensure that they have the perfect shape. Only then are they allowed to venture beyond the confines of Haberdasher Street itself.

Also rather special to see were the banks of Drake's bespoke cloths and cut lengths (as seen in some of the Autumn/Winter campaign shots) running wall to wall down the East side of the factory - itching to be made-up into the most special of bespoke commissions. These walls of cloth also brought home the importance of seasonality to me. Drake's work with very heavy, wintery 50oz silks, 36oz versatile multi-seasonal pieces and lighter 30oz crispy spun & net silks for light weight, floaty ties - infinitely more comfortable during the warmer months. Each of these weights of tie produce something which feels different when worn, appropriate for different environments and seasons, again, much like different weaves and weights of bespoke suiting cloths. These silks are complimented in themselves by different tipping options and weights of lining. A Drake's tie is always designed with a nod to being worn comfortably during different seasons, as well as for different occasions and to provide different aesthetics. These bales of silk cloth were sitting alongside some seriously weighty, spongy wool-cashmere blends and dense tweeds. These are destined for Autumn/Winter fifteen, to be made-up with light, fine linings to ensure that these ties combined a wintery fullness with comfort when worn around the neck, a perfect example of the thought that goes into designing a Drake's tie. 

Photography by Brendan Fitzpatrick

Visiting the factory was a great pleasure, and reaffirmed to me that Drake's ties (like many of their other luxury accessories) are objects which exude a delicacy of design and artistic appeal, but which also embody a British manufacturing precision which feels at every stage to contain 'a huge amount of skill and loyal expertise' as Jamie put it. Watching the manufacturing process was both therapeutic and reassuring. Drake's ties begin their lives in very capable hands, and when Drake's say their ties are handmade - they mean it.

Drake's ties start at £95.00, bespoke ties start from £155 with no minimum order required.

www.drakes.com