Forward Thinking for Autumn

It may be the height of summer, but the world of bespoke tailoring always runs ahead of itself. With a production time of two to three months for most bespoke garments, if you want something to be ready for Autumn, you have to get it ordered in mid-summer. With my summer wardrobe having received a much needed recent boost to get me through the rest of the season, (with the addition of a couple of pieces in 8oz fresco and a rather special linen and mohair cocktail suit by Chester Barrie) its time to start thinking about marshalling resources for autumn.

The cloth in question is a richly coloured, fun windowpane check in 12oz, fully milled worsted twill by Holland & Sherry.

This autumn is going to be an exceptionally exciting one. I have managed to secure a valuable internship within the industry, which I am looking forward to immensely. This of course heralds with it a number of changes that need to happen to my wardrobe; business dress options need enhancing and the next few purchases will need to be sufficiently versatile and business-like to wear to work. Another suit is however going to be out of the question for some time, given my highly limited finances as a currently unemployed graduate so other options must be explored. With this in mind, stumbling across a cut-length of what is ordinarily a highly exclusive jacketing cloth from the Holland & Sherry 'Peacock Jacketing' bunch was a truly ecstatic moment. The beauty of supplying a cut-length of cloth for bespoke orders is that your the doesn't have to undertake the expense of purchasing any cloth. For this reason, often customers who supply their own cloth can expect to pay entry level prices, this being something I have done repeatedly with my own bespoke commissions, to maximise affordability on a limited budget. This what allowed me to order my chocolate cocktail suit in what is ordinarily a very exclusive super 160s dresswear cloth.

A close-up of the sky blue checks, with a white yarn running through the centre of each stripe to enrich the blue colour.

Followers on Facebook may be aware that I was recently inspired by a photograph of a burned orange and sky blue checked sportscoat. Such a jacket, though potentially outlandish, can be surprisingly versatile. A deep, warm orange works with brown tones, contrasts with greys and harmonises with blues surprisingly well - making for a distinctive but nonetheless wearable staple. For this reason, I am hoping to scrimp and save over the next few months, with a view to having a bespoke sports coat made up come the autumn - a piece which will be used for a variety of different roles. A sportscoat which displays confident use of colour and check can be kept super-simple with a white cut-away collar and navy grenadine tie for the office, or can make for a stand-out cocktail jacket with some fine chocolate sharkskin trousers, a paisley pocket handkerchief and a striped blue shirt. For the same reasons it can also make for a great day-to-evening jacket with grey flannels and a classic shirt. Simply remove your tie and re-style your hanky for a more casual and sophisticated feel when you leave the office.

The photograph which got me thinking...

Also important to consider is the way in which a bold checked sportscoat could work with the remainder of my existing wardrobe. With two pairs of grey flannels on the way currently, (see The Grey Trouser Project), a navy blue three piece business suit and a navy and white double-breasted dogstooth suit (the turn-back cuffs of which will be removed before I start work to make it more appropriate for business), the sportscoat will mix and match nicely with my existing range of mid and heavy-weight trousers. The autumnal tones in the cloth are also very pleasing, with the burned orange of autumn leaves and rich honey brown tones of cedar trees. I firmly believe that the colours of one's wardrobe should reflect the seasons (demonstrating an affinity with the natural world hints at one's sensitivity when it comes to dressing) and a jacket cut in a ground shade of autumnal rusty tones is about as seasonal as it gets.

So there you have it really - consider this a case-study in thinking about constructing and maintaining one's tailored wardrobe through changing times and seasons. I hope that the consideration of a boldly checked sportscoat as a worthy addition to a modest capsule business-casual wardrobe demonstrates how every now and then, investing in something outlandish which has the potential to be every bit as versatile as a plain, classic suit shows that 'investments' don't all have to be navy and grey staples. Once a few basics have been dealt with, experimentation can pay excellent and satisfying dividends.