London Collections: Men SS15, Some Opening Thoughts

So, another LC:M has passed on with all the glamour, style and vivacity expected of such a prestigious event. As usual, with the passing of LC:M, I'm going to offer some in-depth insights and commentary on specific sartorial brands and collections over the coming weeks, but for now, some initial impressions are the order of the day. Having attended the presentations for both Ede &Ravenscroft and Chester Barrie, as well as exploring the collections of a number of other sartorial brands presenting this season, the reception of stylish British tailoring seems to have more encouraging than ever, with global fashion icons, industry professionals and powers alike admiring sartorial British style.

A lightweight wool blazer with powerful lapels by Chester Barrie

As you can imagine, Savile Row is at the centre of much of this admiration, and with good reason. Each house exhibiting provided something truly unique this season and it seems clear that Savile Row as an entity is gaining confidence in itself, starting to realise the power of its rich heritage and even richer brand identity. Designers seemed more willing to experiment than during AW/14 back in January, which in itself was a show that demonstrated Savile Row's intentions to produce a notably more innovatory tailored product. The bold use of deep, rich block colour or else super-sharp pastels was prevalent in all the sartorial designs this season. Hardy Amies presented a selection of tailored separates cut in bold primary colours alongside more muted tones of soft blue and cyan. Ede & Ravenscroft have produced a collection which marks a definite change in direction, drawing upon archival designs and cuts (including full-cut Oxford bags, double-breasted waistcoats and broad peaked lapels) updated with a precise colour palette of gentle  pastel hues. Not what you might expect from one of the previously more sober outfitters on the Row. Gieves & Hawkes created a very rich collection revolving predominantly around the sharp, cool blues and greys of a clear spring sky, an extremely bold act one which feels distinctly fashion-forward in character. Chester Barrie have designed a collection based on the golden era of the glamorous French Riviera, presenting a huge variety of extremely elegant cocktail and party dress options, including French blue and cream cocktail suits and bold 'Campari red' and teal fresco mixer blazers.

One of my favourite looks from Ede & Ravenscroft

The quality of cloths chosen and the superior quality of garment construction were both particularly apparent this season. Tailoring for the warmer months has to overcome a number of unique challenges; often summer weight cloths will be highly lightweight and breathable, but fragile. Consequently, many summer cloths can suffer from a poor drape or lack of durability. Choosing heavier cloths, or cloths with denser weaves may produce a more durable garment, but can result in poor breathability and excess weight, making tailored pieces unpractical for wear during hot weather. Such challenges are not so prevalent in creating tailoring for autumn and winter and often frustrate the quality of spring/summer collections, but not this season. Chester Barrie presented a collection which made deft use of featherweight, yet strong, supple wool cloths and mohair and silk blends, whilst Gieves & Hawkes and Richard James offered garments cut in superfine cotton and linen cloths of a very superior quality, which had both body and breathability. Ede & Ravenscroft's collection made particularly fine use of linen cloths which whilst having the softness and airiness expected of pure linen, also presented resistance to creasing and crispness of handle.

Cool blue suiting by Gieves & Hawkes

Everything was cut and finished beautifully too, and the presentation highlights very clearly how Savile Row is starting to turn its unparalleled technical brilliance to producing off-the-peg tailored pieces which are exceptionally flattering on the wearer. Lapel gorges and bellies were cut just-so, silhouettes were immaculate and chests were lovely and full throughout. Even down to the use of hand-finishing and in the choice of especially crafted buttons, the Row's attention to detail did not go unnoticed.

In essence, this LC:M presented the image of an already burgeoning and confident Savile Row growing even more self-assured and self-aware. With all these markedly progressive sartorial experiments, at no point was the essence of Savile Row lost. Collections were pitched perfectly between traditional British tailoring and modern, fashionable elegance. Everything felt reassuringly well crafted, meticulously considered and silhouettes remained strongly sartorial in shape. For a sartorial tailoring obsessive such as myself, Savile Row's various offerings were simply a delight to behold. To my mind at least, it seems as though the unconventional is becoming the convention, modernity is being worked into the classically sartorial and Savile Row is finding a new self-confidence.