London Collections Men SS15, Ede & Ravenscroft: The Epitome of Relaxed Elegance

Savile Row tailors and gentlemen's outfitters Ede &Ravenscroft showcased an elegant and engaging collection at London Collections: Men, a collection which marks a definite change in direction for the brand. Having for many years been a deeply traditional outfitters, the arrival of new Head of Design Michael McGrath, together with a new plan of action for the brand has resulted in the transformation of the company's clothing and approach, to produce sartorial menswear which presents itself as slightly more progressive and contemporary. This new contemporary edge characterises the unusually relaxed, but ever elegant SS15 collection beautifully.

The navy linen, broad legged Oxford bags with inverted pleats and turn-ups are an archival piece, as are the turn-back cuffs on this linen herringbone blazer.

The collection takes its inspiration from the 'languid sophistication' of the English gentleman's attire during the early decades of the twentieth century and draws upon the colour palette of an English gentleman's spring garden; featuring gentle pastels, faded botanical shades and a base of cool earthy tones, updating the traditional colours of gentlemen's tailoring with a wealth of gentle blues, greens and taupe shades. The result is a collection of updated tailored pieces and more progressive casual clothing which present a contemporary yet authentic British tailored look for the warmer months. Linen suiting, cotton jackets and lightweight wool blends dominate, made-up into classic and softly structured garments.

Note the unusual button-down collar, inspired by Edwardian workwear. Its been designed to be worn without a shirt for a modern update.

Crucially, although markedly more contemporary, the collection has not lost any of its traditional and sartorial appeal and has achieved what is perhaps the perfect balance between tradition and modernity. This has been achieved through the dexterous combination of archival details and heritage touches with an ever so slightly more modern approach to styling and colour. The ensemble below demonstrates the point beautifully. The Oxford bag trousers and double-breasted waistcoat are both designs from the 1920s, taken directly from the company's archives and reinvented in pure linens and soft, pale pastel hues. Note also the functional arm-tab detailing on the shirt -  also taken from the company archives, all of which add a casual note to the tailored ensemble.

The pale pink linen double-breasted waistcoat is to die for. Apparently its coming with a matching blazer as well...

Other examples which demonstrate this balance between modernity and tradition include a fabulous spring three piece cotton suit, cut with a classic notched lapel, gently suppressed waist and simple straight cut jetted pockets. This classicism is then off-set with a double-breasted waistcoat and suit's vibrant French blue colour, as opposed to a classic navy.

These differences are subtle; cuts are very soft and remain sartorial (and remind me a little of Anderson & Sheppard's soft tailoring) but every piece has one accent or another which provides a more contemporary edge. Its a subtle combination, but has resulted in a collection which truly does combine English sartorial elegance with a seemingly carefree relaxedness and more than a touch of panache. My favourite piece was a pale sage green blazer, cut in a beautifully soft milled linen plainweave, with peaked lapels, the points of which were rounded - a decision which helped to soften their impact and somehow harmonise a soft cut with the soft texture and gentle mint colour of the jacket. It presents an understated, but inspired piece of menswear design and characterises the intelligence of the collection.

A fabulous double-breasted blazer with a pleasingly full and gentle shape, cut in a densely woven Italian linen hopsack. 

The deliberate restraint of the collection means that even those rather unconventional pastel coloured pieces still feel understated and easy to wear. Nothing is pushed too far; lapels are the perfect width, jackets are not structured too strongly and stylistic details are sparse, but perfectly placed. The complete absence of jacket ticket pockets from the collection is a good example, as is the decision to cut most jackets with classic horizontal jetted pockets, as opposed to slanting pockets. These help to keep all the jackets fuss-free and simple, allowing the quality of construction and innovative use of pastel colours to shine through. Also fascinating is the way in which the company's three hundred and fifty years worth of archives consistently inform those details which have made their way into the collection. Some sports coats have turn-back cuffs echoing the cuffs on a Royal Livery Uniform for example and new shirt collar shapes echo the collarless shirting worn by the Judiciary, and a modernised take on Edwardian button-down designs.

Note the modern take on an equestrian field coat, with military inspired cuffs on the left.

Next Spring and summer will bring with it an impressive, intelligently designed and highly welcome collection from Ede & Ravenscroft - a collection which combines traditional gentleman's dress with innovative use of colour and styling to produce a very fresh and sharp aesthetic. I for one can't wait for it to arrive.

Edeandravenscroft.co.uk