What To Look For in a True Trenchcoat

I recently had the pleasure of purchasing the first decent trenchcoat I've ever owned. Thoroughbred trenchcoats are a hard thing to find, and personally I'd advise that you turn exclusively to one of two retailers - either Burberry or Aquascutum. Both firms have their extensive heritages rooted in classical British outerwear and rainwear, and given that my Aunt instilled in me a love of Aquascutum's 'understated British elegance' from a young age, I had to turn to Aquascutum. I have always loved the brand for its heritage, its Britishness and its uncompromising approach to quality and timelessly elegant design. It was Aquascutum who produced and patented the first water proof cloth and coat in 1853. In the same year the company created the Raglan sleeve to add to their coats at the request of their prestigious customer Lord Raglan. 

This coat is cut in a striking cobalt blue waterproofed cotton, and presents a modern take on the classic trenchcoat format - wide spread double breasting with epaulettes, a rever collar, storm-flaps, rain guards and a belt to fasten. It falls to just below the knee, which for me is the perfect length - it stops the coat from looking too old fashioned whilst still providing optimal protection against the rain. This coat also appeals because it is one of many patterns that Aquascutum currently produce which are precise recreations of heritage pieces from their archives. This is a 60s model called 'Bladen' which is exactly the same pattern of coat worn by the effortlessly impressive Michael Caine in the original 'Get Carter'. 

Aquascutum was one of the largest manufacturers of mass produced military trenchcoats for the Great War, and the design features that stem back to the original are still present on good rainwear today. It is a coat rooted deeply in functionality and for it to truly satisfy I'd suggest that when looking for your own raincoat, if you opt for a design with some 'trenchcoat-esque' features, you ensure that they work properly. This is not a 'style over substance' coat - to keep you warm and dry - it needs to work properly too.

First things first, the double breasting should button right up to the top of the chest and shoulders. Furthermore, whichever side of the double-breasting coat fastens up, the panel on the shoulder known as a 'storm flap' should button over the top of the coat fastening. This panel prevents rain from getting into the top and the side of the coat where it fastens on the chest - button it over whenever its raining heavily for extra protection.

Similarly, a storm-flap should be present across the upper back. This panel acts as an exoskeleton to the coat and absorbs rain which lands on the back and shoulders where it falls the heaviest. This will keep the coat's back and shoulders beneath warm and dry. 

A tall rever collar with a rainguard. This is a collar design which both pops and stands beautifully, keeping the wearer's neck nice and warm when required. Furthermore, the hook and eye closure can be covered by a rain-guard, which buttons across the standing collar. This (like a storm flap) prevents rain from getting into the gap where the hooks and eyes meet - providing further waterproofing.

Internally split welt pockets. This is a type of pocket that you'll find takes the place of conventional welted coat pockets (the normal kind that covers with a flap). It includes both a conventional pocket where you'd expect to find it, and behind a slit which allows you to access both your jacket and or trouser pockets without exposing your hands (or clothing beneath) to the elements.

A buttoning fantail pleat will stop rain and mud from getting behind the vent of your coat in miserable conditions.

Belted sleeve cuffs are intended to do the same - they can be tightened around the wearer's wrist in the rain to prevent rain getting into and running down the sleeve.

So perhaps there's more to a trenchcoat than you thought? It really is a piece that's worth shopping around for and investing in, if you want to do its job properly...